• Bullet Weight Chart

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I can usually hold 180 gr. Rome total war 2 amazon. LBTs to about 1/2, to maybe a 3/4 grain variance from heaviest to lightest. I start remelting at 1 grain variance. This is not 1 gr. +/-, this is 1/2 grain +/.

I'll let 300 grainers go to about 1.5 gr. +/- before remelting. I only ladle cast nowadays, I've never figured out how to get consistent results with those new-fangled bottom pour contraptions. The level of consistency I require is really unnecessary for everyday shooting. 1 to 1-1/2% should do you fine, and I know guys who are okay with 5%. And I know some who don't even weigh bullets at all.

Ol' Scrooge, here.On a number of occasions, I have weighed every single bullet in a large run, like 800 or 1000 bullets. My PACT electronic scale makes such evolutions rather painless, and the experience taught me a few things.One such thing learned, was that weighing my production is pretty much pointless. My regular visual inspection rejects more bullets than does weighing, and the rejects are few with most of my moulds. By this, I mean that some bullets which weigh-in nicely within whatever tolerance I allow on a given occasion would be rejected by visual inspection.I do weigh some smaller lots on occasion, mostly out of curiosity. Based on considerable history in doing this, I now expect my bullets of around 200 grains to have a MAXIMUM extreme spread in weight of about one grain, and bullets in the 130-grain area to have an ES of about 1/2 grain.

My RCBS 365-grain.416s typically show a max ES of less than one grain, and likewise for my now-departed RCBS.50-515s.All these are bottom-poured with the ProMelt set at its highest temp, about 870 degrees. Those RCBS singles are wonderful moulds, but most of the others are cast from 2-cavity or 4-cavity moulds of various manufacture, and they still deliver bullets which are extremely consistent in weight, even including 2-cavity Lees.I firmly believe that the HOT casting temp allows better fill-out of the bullets than cooler temperatures, at least with wheelweight alloy, and I do the high-temp routine all the time. For instance, rounded bases are very rare in my casting sessions. I recall a day not long ago, when I eyeballed over 1000 RCBS 44-250KT boolits under magnification, and didn't reject a single one!

THAT is consistency in fill-out, believe me, because I'm quite fussy about flaws. (Did sundog ever mention how much he and I like RCBS molds???)IF I intended to shoot some super-high-class ego-stretchin' match or other, I suppose that weighing the bullets might be in order. However, I shoot for fun and relaxation, and my regular way of casting is fine for what I do. BruceB, I endorse your idea that visual inspection will cull out about as many as weighing will. Recently, sorting nearly 200 Lyman 311284 boolits given me by a generous friend, I found THREE boolits outside a 1% weight range.

Also, there were TWO with very minor visual flaws. (I only weight sort boolits when working up loads or loading for competition. Normally, for fun shooting my castings get a visual inspection only and still manage to outshoot me.) I conclude that a merciless visual inspection will likely do as much good as weighing. My method depends on what I am going to use the bullet for. For typical revolver and pistol bullets, I visually cull. I am pretty particular and won't use a rounded base. However, when the mould and metal 'start running' nearly everything comes out well.

Anything that doesn't meet the cut goes immediately into the pot.However, for Schuetzen bench use, it REQUIRES as near a perfect bullet as possible to be competitive. 1/2 minute accuracy is the requirement. For these, I weigh every bullet. I have an RCBS electronic scale so it isn't a terrible chore. My standards are now +or-.2 grain with a 204 gr bullet. Hopefully, I will get that even closer (at least, that is my wish).

When I was shooting BPCR Silhouette, my standard for 422 gr. Bullets were +or-.6 of a grain.Dale53. I weigh match boolits. Since I am already weighing them, I sort by.1 gr (yea, one tenth) and leave them in segregated batches. The spread is sometimes as much as one grain for 180ish weight boolits. I'll generally get enough at.1 intervals for at least a couple three batches of ammo (70 at a time for a match).

Left overs are used for bbl warmers. This has done two things; reduced flyers to virtually zero, and tightened groups. Seems like + or -.5 would do just about the same. What I am really looking for is those that do not get visually culled, but are light weights. Those babys have a hidden void, and almost guaranteed, they'll produce a flyer. Hmmm, just thought of an experiment to test this.

Maybe next batch I weigh I'll keep some out, mark'em and shoot with known good'uns for comparison. If I do, range report will follow.There's one other batch of boolits that I weight.22s. You gotta be ruthless in culling these little itty bitty boolits. Again, since they're going across the scale anyway, they get sorted by.1 gr. Felix and I have been working a little project here lately and the mould in use is producing some outstanding results with the majority of the boolits dropping around 59, + or -.2, from a 2 cavity mould. They shoot purdy durn good, too.

Anything outside that range is a cull and goes in the recylce can. When they're being shot through a Douglas air gage bbl, and the rest of the gun is up to task like it is, it's worth it. Not bad either in the little.222 Sako carbine.Clean, well tuned moulds, and a hot, hot, hot melt, and a good casting technique will make good boolits well within an accetable range.

My best and most consistent boolits, hands down, are dipper poured. Well filled out and square, flat bases. The base is important, even it's getting GC'd. I have a Lyman dipper that I've been using for years that is cared for as well as any of my moulds, especially the spout.Okay, so is all this all way too anal? Not when you shoot itty bitty groups, consistently.Plinking boolits for the grandkids get poured, lubed and loaded.

Get a bad one at the casting bench, it goes back in the pot. I weigh every one, and have records of 11374 bullets in 104 batches, average 110 bullets cast per batch, all with a ladle.I throw out any bullet weighing more than.5 grain from the average, generally 1-3 bullets per batch.Less these outliers, all the bullets I cast are within +/.5 grain of the average, and generally the spread will be.4.5 grains.Thus, 311299, high is 208.2, low is 207.8 grains.The average S.D. Is.145 gr., high S.D. Is.294 gr., low S.D.

Bullet Weight Chart

Is.068 gr.Variation is NOT a function of bullet weight.Summary: I (and you) can cast bullets of any weight from 40-500 grains that vary no more than +/.5 grains for the batch. I weigh for the outliers, the bullet that's 1.8 grains light or heavy, that WILL shoot out of the group.I CANNOT demontrate that bullets that weigh EX: 208.2-208.7 grains shoot larger groups than bullets that weigh exactly 208.4 grains.I'd be happy to send my EXCEL spreadsheet of bullet weights to anyone interested.joe b. I am reading this old thread because it is relevant to my question. I did the math on 50 of 238 bullets cast using a Lyman 452424 mold. Lyman says these are 255 grain bullets (for Colt 45). Here is what I found:N = 50Mean = 242.004SD = 0.938The first thing I notice is the mean weight is 13 grains less than Lyman’s advertised 255 grains. If it matters, I used Lyman #2 alloy and poured at 750 degrees with a PID controlled pot.

The bullets are all clean with sharp edges. I sized all of them to.452 before weighing them.

The SD of.94 isn’t so bad. It’s the mean weight of the bullets being 13 grains lighter than the expected 255 grains that I am wondering about. Any idea what’s going on here?

Yesterday, I spent the majority of the day casting bullets. Among those I cast were 434 bullets from a Lee 309-170 mold for a flat point gas check bullet to use in my.308. After sizing, applying the gas checks, and tumble lubing, I weighed each bullet on a digital scale, all 434 of them.First, I found that my nominal weight changed from the last batch of bullets from that mold I cast. Last month, my batch was at around 171 grains. Yesterday's batch was in the 178 grain area. I attribute that to a difference in my alloy.

I usually eyeball to get an approximate 50-50 mix of pure lead and linotype. I have never a problem with it being a little different from batch to batch, as long as I weigh my bullets.Second, my weights yesterday varied from 175.6 to 179.9 grains. There are always a few ringers on either end that I cull out of my shooting loads. All but 22 bullets weighed between 177.1 grains and 179.0 grains. That's 95% within a 2.0 grain spread. The majority weighed 178.0, 178.1, or 178.2 grains. I tried to take a photo of the bullets in the trays that I use for sorting to illustrate the distribution, but it didn't work out too well.

Oh, and there were no obviously flawed bullets. Those went right back into the pot after casting.I imagine I will keep batches within plus or minus a half grain when I start loading. In my experience, consistent weight of cast bullets seems to contribute the most to accuracy. I expect these to shoot under one inch at 100 yards. And in case you are wondering about the tumble lubing, I have never had a leading problem with cast bullets in my.308 with Lee Liquid Alox. My max velocities are in the neighborhood of 2200 fps.Not a question or anything, just an FYI of what I did and what works for me. It is not a tumble lube bullet.

I have five Lee molds for bullets for my.308. None of them are tumble lube style and I have never had a leading problem with any of them.

I keep velocities to no more than about 2200 fps and use a 50-50 lead-linotype alloy. When I first started out casting I figured I needed to get a lubrisizer, but I started with pistol bullets that were tumble lube style. Then when I moved to bullets for my.308 I tried tumbling them and never had a problem. So, I have never obtained a lubrisizer and just use the Lee push through sizer for.309 that also puts on the gas check. Maybe it's not supposed to work, but it does for me. You say you weighed the bullets after tumble lubing. I'm sure the variance in the amount of lube from one bullet to another wouldn't cause much variation in weight.

Still, I wonder if the results would have been different had the bullets been weighed before lubing or before installing gas checks for that matter. How much variation in weight can there be from one gas check to another.Now you have me curious and I'll probably waste a bunch of time weighing bullets, gas checks, and before and after lubes. Obviously the alloy composition affects weight with higher percentages of tin resulting in lower bullet weight.However, alloy composition also effects bullet diameter in addition to weight with softer (less tin) alloys being slightly smaller in diameter than harder (more tin) alloys. The range ends up being around.001'Mould temperature also affects diameter and roundness of the bullet, and indirectly bullet weight. Lee moulds (aluminum seem to be most consistent and produce the largest bullet diameter at about 410-420 degrees. Steel moulds like Lyman molds run better a little cooler at around 380 degrees.

In both cases, the range is again about.001' and smaller diameter bullets from moulds that are hotter or colder than optimum will end up weighing slightly less.Finally mould fill quality impacts weight slightly as a less than perfect fill means less lead. Adding 1%-1.5% tin to some alloys will generally help the fill and reduce the reject rate. Kart29, I have thought about weighing prior to lubing and adding the gas check, but then I would have all these small lots of bullets of slightly different weights i would have to keep up with through the lubing and gas checking process. And since bottom line, I am interested in the total projectile weight, it just seemed the thing to do to weigh and sort them after lubing and gas checking.And Model 52, my 50-50 alloy bullets drop at about.310 diameter and really don't get sized that much through the Lee.309 sizer. Probably I could get away without sizing, except I am putting on gas checks so they get sized anyway. Also, running through the Lee aizer, I can tell very quickly if I have a too big or too small of a bullet without weighing.

If it really takes an effort to push through or zips right through without really touching, I know I have one that is off, probably due to me not having the mold completely closed or missing a badly poured bullet. I do notice more variance when casting.380 or.45 bullets out of wheelweights. I am sure this is due to a variation in the alloy from one batch of wheelweights to the next. The difference in alloy doesn't seem to affect how they shoot, just the final weight. I have had as much as a 10 grain difference between batches likely due to variation in the alloy.I cast because I have the equipment to do so, a plentiful supply (for now anyway) of cheap or free alloy, and I enjoy the process. Bottom line is I can shoot all the pistol ammo I want for 5-6 cents each and.308 for about 11 cents each.

Thanks for the info on the tumble lubing. I purchase a batch of bullets with the tumble lube and tumble grooves. I asked the seller what velocity he got from the bullets but he never responded and I've kept the velocity pretty low.

I'll experiment with slightly higher velocities now.It seems that weighing before the gas check and tumble would allow you to cull the outliers for easier re-melting and without the waste of lube, gas checks, and time. Of course, if you want to know the finished bullet weight regardless of the reason for the difference in weights, I can see why you do it your way. You say you weighed the bullets after tumble lubing. I'm sure the variance in the amount of lube from one bullet to another wouldn't cause much variation in weight. Still, I wonder if the results would have been different had the bullets been weighed before lubing or before installing gas checks for that matter. How much variation in weight can there be from one gas check to another.Now you have me curious and I'll probably waste a bunch of time weighing bullets, gas checks, and before and after lubes.

Thanks alot!Back in '97-'98 when I poured lead into molds I found that stiring the lead/linotype mixture often helped keep the bullets uniform because the linotype is so much lighter and harder than pure lead.I even added an oz or two of 'puter the poor mans silver'.(Gathered this at garage sales) The bullets I still have are about as shiny as when I made them. Just be sure to keep the mixture at the correct heat using a metal thermometer handy.Coyote. What I do for weight difference is if I do long shots I weight each one like was done and what i do is go with the +.05 of 1gr of weight and that is after I size them and lube them and have GC on them because all that will change the weight of the bullet. The one i have the most of and it is useally 2 weights that I test with and the one that weight the higher end is the one that shoots the best and then work on the other weight and the others one that is odd weight I use it in other cals that I will not use for long shots.When it is not for long shots i do not weight the bullets. I sort my sized, lubed, and gas checked bullets by.1 grain increments and use a 20 compartment plastic box to store them.

The attached photo shows my box for Lee.309 170 grain flat point bullets. The actual range of weights for this batch was from 178.5 to 179.8 grains with most of them falling between 179.0 and 179.2. I use any stragglers on either end for fouling shots.

When I use them to assemble rounds, I keep them +/-.1 grain. I have separate boxes for each bullet weight/style that I cast.

If your cast bullets are identical in shape, a variation in weight will cause the ballistic coefficient to vary proportionally to it. Bryan Litz has found measured BC's for commercial bullets vary 3% (±1.5%). If I take a 0.308' 165 grain semi-pointed ogive bullet with a ballistic coefficient of 0.27 and vary it ±1.5% (almost ± 2.5 grains), that much change, including allowing about 15 fps velocity variation due to that weight difference, will affect point of impact about ±0.1 inches at 200 yards. It matters if you are in the benchrest phase of a Scheutzen match competing at the top level. For everyone else, shrug your shoulders. Other factors that cause shot to shot velocity variation will be more important.That said, the limitation is that it assumes perfectly mass symmetrical bullets.

If the weight difference is random but even, you get to shrug your shoulders, as I described. But if the lighter bullets are lighter because of inclusions that are not centered, then you have a problem, and the bullets with such inclusions will drift away from the mean POI by some amount during their flight to the target. So having the bullet 'balanced' is what matters most.Since most folks can't test for CG centrality, I recommend you evaluate the bullets with that issue in mind.

You will likely find some range of weights where the variation doesn't indicate imbalance. You want to identify that by shooting groups with sorted bullets. But once you have that range, anything that falls within it should do fine.